The hair typing system is attributed to Andre Walker, hair stylist of Oprah Winfrey for over 25 years who has also styled former first lady of United States of America, Michelle Obama. In his 1997 book “Andre Hair Talks”, Andre breaks down the different types of hair and the appropriate hair care suitable for each hair type. In the Andre Walker Hair Typing System ^TM.

There are four types with sub divisions labelled A, B or C. African textured hair is usually type 3 and 4. The hair typing system is just a guide as an African textured hair can have a mixture of Type 3 and 4, with this guide, a person can look for the dominating type and carve their hair care regimen around it.

What works for one person might work for you or NOT! So, it’s all about experimenting with your own hair and find out what works best for you. The guidelines are however a great starting point for everybody. However, there other hair typing guides out there.

SHRINKAGE AND MOISTURE

A 3a curly type has big loose curls. that are about the size of jumbo sidewalk chalk. The hair may have a perpetual sheen and be seriously affected by climate.

A 3b curly type has well-defined curls that range from bouncy ringlets to tight corkscrews. Curls are about the size of a sharpie and can get quite temperamental if too many styling products are used.

A 3c hair type has defined tight curls that look like corkscrews. Type 3c curls are approximately the circumference of a pencil or straw with lots and lots of strands densely packed together.

A 4a hair has hair that is tightly coiled and when stretched creates an “S” pattern. You can see a distinct curl pattern with this hair type and it tends to hold moisture relatively well.

A type 4b hair has less of a defined curl pattern and creates what appears to be a “Z” formation when stretched. The hair will have bends and sharp angles and a cotton-like feel.

A 4c hair type hair is densely packed with tightly kinked strands. This hair type can have a distinct curl pattern, but the proper level of moisturizing must be achieved. This hair type is most often described as being a “more challenging version” of 4b hair. It has a tendency towards being dry, so constant moisturizing is key. 4c hair is known for shrinking down to 75% of its true length.

Shrinkage is part of every natural hair journey. The way natural hair follicles form and the texture of the hair enable shrinkage. There is a myth that natural hair lack length. This is because the hair when dry looks short, but when wet or stretched reveals its original length. Some Afro – textured hairstyles require stretching, others do not. There are different stretching methods like the African thread method, ribbons, twists, bantu knots, flat iron.

Moisture

Natural hair tends to lose moisture faster than other hair types. Due to this a naturalista must moisturize their hair daily to avoid frizz, hair loss or hair breakage. The best way to retain moisture is to put water, essential oils and a water based leave-in-conditioner at least twice a day. This process is usually called the LOC; liquid, oil and cream method.

Flat Iron Stretching

African Thread Stretching

Bantu Knot Streching

279154d774809ec3a2dc61145cd0b2aa (1).jpg

Shrinkage is REAL